MADVENTURES Amazonas
The Greatest Budget Lodging in Rio
If you are looking for inexpensive and distinctive lodging in Rio de Janeiro, try The Maze Inn. This small
pension is located in the favela of Tavares Bastos, but it is very safe: Tavares Bastos is also the home for
the training center of Special Police Operation Battalion, Batalhão de Operações Policiais Especiais (BOPE).
Tavares Bastos is a true working class neighborhood, with plenty of small kiosks, bars and restaurants. And
like all favelas, it offers supreme scenery over the city “proper”.
The sixty-something artist and former BBC correspondent Bob Nadkarni owns and runs the inn. He is able to
curse like a sailor in many languages (including Finnish). The rooms are modest, but stylish. On the first
Friday of every month the joint is taken over by very bohemian jazz club.
Link: http://jazzrio.info/en/the-maze.html
Address: Rua Tavares Bastos 414 casa 66
Street Party, Rio Style
At the Largo das Neves square there is a bacchanal going on every weekend.
Even if you travel outside the carnival season, this place is your chance to enjoy true Rio style street party. At
night all sorts of sound systems are erected, six packs are opened and even impromptu orchestras strike out with their
instruments. Everybody’s dancing, partying and perhaps looking for that someone special.
Largo das Neves is located on top of the Santa Teresa hill. Santa Teresa neighborhood is known for its artists and
bohemians, where the faded exteriors of the buildings won’t keep the shindig scene from flourishing - au contraire.
Address: The end of Rua Progreso, the final stop of the Paula Matos streetcar line.
Ayahuasca Ceremony
Ayahuasca is the sacred medicine of the Amazon Indians. The indigenous people of Brazil, Peru, Ecuador and Columbia
use this psychoactive plant extract in order to reach the world of vision and mythology filled with revelation and
healing. Shaman or curandero prepares the potion and it is ingested in the ritual where icaros, ancient remedial songs are sung.
In Brazil you can acquaint yourself with Ayahuasca ritual in Tabatinga, where eminent curandero Francisco Bezerra Pinto arranges
them at his homestead. Don Francisco is over 90 years old and has studied the ways in the jungles of Amazon of natural healing
since the 1920’s. You might want to ask the locals to help with the translation, if you don’t speak Portuguese or the languages
of the Amazonas indigenous people.
Contact info: Rua Amazonino Mendes, Bairro – Vila Verde (no number), Tabatinga. Tel +55-97-81799404
MADVENTURES Myanmar
Myanmar And Ethics
Myanmar is ruled by cruel military junta, which should be regarded when traveling to the country. For an ordinary traveler this
causes no actual danger and because of its strict rules, Myanmar is one of the more safe nations in its region. But the junta
is also in the top ten of the world’s atrocities, so don’t throw your budget willingly to the opressors.
In the early 1990’s the nobel peace prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi recommended all foreigners to avoid the country, so the generals
wouldn’t profit from tourism to fund their oppressive ways. Because of this you can still see boycotts against traveling to Myanmar.
The world has changed after the statement by the freedom fighter in house arrest and Madventures thinks like most of the opposite
leaders of the country today: you can and you must travel to Myanmar but do it responsibly. This means avoiding all government
businesses (hotels, restaurants, airlines etc.) The junta craves for tourist willing to be isolated in luxury holiday villages!
Instead use your money at the grassroots level where it reaches the common citizen.
The most important thing is to make your decision about traveling to Myanmar by yourself. Weigh the pros and cons, think and decide,
then spread the knowledge, so others can make their choices.
Cheroot
In the Myanmar countryside the traveller can’t escape the sight of huge blunts especially on the lips of the senior citizens.
This is not the so-called wacky tobacco that is in question but traditional Burmese cigar, the cheroot.
Cheroot is dried and ground tobacco wrapped in tobacco or corn leaf. For a spice, some dried and grated sprigs of palm tree
are sometimes used. Leafs are also used as filters to keep the fillings from entering the smoker’s lung. The smoke is actually
surprisingly smooth.
Cheroots are sold all over Myanmar and every province has their own factories and favorite brands. They even introduced the
menthol cheroot recently in Yangon. Best cheroots can still be found at the countryside, where especially the older ladies
are professed rollers (and smokers) of these gigantic joints. The most enormous cigars need half a coconut as an ashtray,
kept under the cigar at all times unless you want to set yourself on fire! Madventures recommends: join some locals and
learn how to roll your own the Burmese way! And cheroot makes an excellent souvenir for all the aficionados back home!
Three Seasons Hotel
In Yangon and Myanmar in general it’s only sensible to avoid hotels owned by government those close to the government.
It is easy, because all the more expensive top end accommodations belong to the junta, when cheaper, privately owned
ones are listed in good guides such as Lonely Planet.
Excellent place to stay in Yangon is the Three Seasons Hotel on 52:nd street. Location is good and the prices are low.
But the best feature is the very nice family skilled in languages, who run this inn under the supervision of Mrs. Ma Hla Hla.
They can fix tickets out of town, rooms are clean, good breakfast and so on. In Myanmar Madventures’ basic principle
is emphasized: when you choose lodging, restaurant or a shop, always support the local enterprises instead of large
(and often multinational) franchises and corporations. This way the contribution margin stays at the private sector,
to the common people instead of foreign investors. And if you pay money for the government in Myanmar, you are in fact
supporting a criminal regime. So choose private – luckily it has been possible in Myanmar for more than a few years now!
Address: No. 83/85,52nd Street, Pazundaung Township, Yangon
Phone: +95-1-293304
E-mail: phyuaung@mptmail.net.mm
MADVENTURES Nippon Points of Interest
Ebisu Yokocho Food Street & Drinking Alley
Tokyo has a tradition of small alleys filled with restaurants dedicated to food and/or drink.
As the city develops, these small alleyways have all but disappeared, but the Japanese are nothing
if not inventive: good old fashioned food & drinking alley is simulated inside an old mall. This maze
of dives and diners is known as Ebisu Yokocho. Although the “alleys” are not from the beginning of the
last century, the place is very popular. The atmosphere is informal and the long line of bars serves
magnificent food from yakiniku to yakitori – and of course, Sake. Ebisu Yokocho was a proof to Madventures,
that Tokyo is one of the world’s greatest cities for foodies and the Japanese cuisine is definitely
a candidate for the best kitchen in the world.
Ebisu Yokocho’s 13 restaurants are open in varying hours from lunch hours until four in the morning.
The nearest subway station, Ebisu is just a stone’s throw away and its address in 1-7-4 Ebisu, Shibuya-Ku, Tokyo.
More info is available on http://www.ebisu-yokocho.com/
- although the pages are in Japanese, click “access”
button on the site and find a map to guide you from the subway station to the restaurant complex.
The World’s Most Psychedelic Water Park
The Japanese love their spas and Madventures has tried many. But the most unorthodox and in a word psychedelic is
situated in Hakone, the biggest traps of all Japan’s tourist trap. Most of these tourists are Japanese families,
who enjoy the views to Mount Fuji, ride gondola lifts up and down the mountain walls or row the Ashino-ko lake.
Hakone is the easiest daytrip destination for someone who keeps Tokyo as a base.
The water park itself is called Hakone Kowakien Yunessun, and it draws spa-lovers like moths to a flame. 25
different baths keep the mind invigorated: the main pool is known as “God’s Aegean Sea”. In addition, there
are Turkish hamam, water slides, sake and green tea baths and top it all, the most mind-blowingly, a pool
filled with real red wine!
Trip to Hakone takes only a few hours by train. The spa netsite can be found at:
http://www.yunessun.com/english/yunessun.html
One Site To Rule Them All
Since 2003 Madventures has placed their trust in all things Tokyo in one man. He is Steven Schultz, American
expert on Japan and a writer who has lived in Tokyo for years. He maintains the very amusing Tokyo Damage Report
webpage. The site is big clustery mess of info, which is sort of fitting to Tokyo. The content ranges from
LOL-inducing photoblogs to the most absurd travel tips. Tokyo Tour Guide shows you the way to the city’s freakiest
corners: gangsta rap-barbershops, anarchist bookshops and weirdest clubs, among others.
Usability is maximized with clear “how to get there”-instructions – in Tokyo mere map and an address won’t
get you far. Tokyo show schedule lists and links to the most important sub-cultural clubs to find when and
where the gigs of interest are happening. Madventures recommends!
http://www.hellodamage.com/top/
MADVENTURES EX-CCCP
Great Trans-Siberian Railway
From Moscow to Asia in one fell swoop! Well, since is the Transsibirskaya magistral is he longest continuous rail
line on earth, you might want to put aside some time to complete this journey of six thousand miles.
If you want to extend your railroad experience beyond Russia, the tracks can take you through Mongolia and China
and all the way to Tibet and even Vietnam – and you have a choice of picking the Trans-Mongolian railway
(From Moscow to Peking via Ulan-Bator) or Trans-Manchurian railway (To Peking via Siberia and Chinese Manchuria), if the.
Don’t bother to buy the tickets before arriving in Russia – saves you money and hassle.
The Big Head
The town of Ulan-Ude is in many ways just a typical Russo-Asian crossing station, but being the proud owner of the biggest head of
Lenin known to mankind must count for something. The former Soviet Union’s most popular theme in monuments have gained a shade of
megalomania here in deep Siberia, and unlike in former Soviet’s Baltic countries, the townspeople have decided not to tear down the statue.
This massive noggin can be found in the centre square of Ulan-Ude, crowning the typical Soviet architecture that spreads 360 degrees
around it. Should your train take you to Buryatia, witness this big head and you’ll never have to see another statue of Lenin again!
Buddhist Temple In Orthodoxic Russia
For many, Russia’s churches are the orthodox ones with distinctive domes of onion shape, but it’s good to remember that the large
part of the country is actually a part of Asia. That in mind, it’s not that surprising that you can find Buddhist monasteries from Russia.
In Buryiatia, near Ulan-Ude, the most famous monastery or datsan is called Ivolginsky. The former monk of this monastery, Dasha-Dorje
Itigelov’s body was buried through the whole Soviet reign, but when it was exhumed on his written orders in th 1990, it was still preserved,
even with hair and fingernails still intact. The monastery and its temples are an interesting mix of typical architecture of Asian temples
and Russian brick barracks. For the pilgrims, the place has dormitory accommodation for a reasonable price.
MADVENTURES Philippines
Rainbow Hotel
Most of the budget travellers to Manila head for Ermita or Malate districts. So did Madventures and found a
great budget accommodation with an unbeatable cost-effectiveness: Rainbow Pacific Suites Hotel.
The first night in Manila was spent in Malate Pensionne, recommended by the the unofficial traveller’s bible
Lonely Planet. It turned out to be very crampy even with our meager camera equipment. The fan kept us awake with
its infernal rattle. So the next day we went across the street to check out the Rainbow: for 20 bucks we’ve got a
large room with air conditioning (April in may is insanely hot), breakfast included and overall better quality than
the more popular place (BTW, those places often raise their prices as soon as they get on the guidebooks, so if
you’re on the budget, it’s worth it do some digging of your own). We moved to Rainbow immediately.
Soon the basis for cheapness was revealed: the clientele was somewhat dubious and seemed to rent the rooms by
hour, often with the members of opposite (or the same) sex. But the location is unbeatable!
1776 M. Adriatico Street, Malate, Manila, Luzon 1AA (Across the street from Malate Pensionne ja Starbucks.)
Best Seafood In Manila
Manila’s most interesting concentration of restaurants in recent years is Seafood Paluto Restaurants: shellfish and
fish-market, with over 30 restaurants. The client can choose his or hers catch fresh from the market – lobsters, red
snappers, oysters, crabs, you name it – and then have them mad into a meal in the restaurant of his choice. Madventures
judged the catch very fresh indeed and the variety as opulent.
Fishmarket has surreptitiously became one of the most popular places to spend an evening, because of its no-nonsense
atmosphere, low prices and excellent Filipino food. And even though we are talking about fish-market, there were no
smells to distract the diners. Instead, we found lots of air-conditioned restaurants and lots of traditional decks
with open kitchens. Amusing (or terrifying) extra element is the karaoke equipment that the local diners use with
eagerness and skill.
Link: http://www.seasideph.com
The Hobbit House
Some of those who end up in Hobbit House pub may think they have drank that infamous one drink too many – the dive is filled
wee men: the owner and the staff from doorman to waiters are short in stature – dwarfs. ”The smallest waiters in the world”,
this tavern proudly proclaims. It has been a smash hit – another Hobbit House was recently opened in the beach destination of Boracay.
J.R.R. Tolkien’s fantasy world is the inspiration for the décor. Music varies from folk to blues and the place is really a
rock club with a twist. The clientele are mostly tourists or local metalheads. The choice in beers is impressive, perhaps
even best in Asia with over a hundred different brands sold – they even have Finnish beer. Open every day from 5 PM to 2 AM,
located in Ermita.
Link: http://www.hobbithousemanila.com
Address: 1212 M.H. del Pilar, corner Arquiza Street, Ermita, Manila
MADVENTURES China Points Of Interest
Donghuamen Night Market
Donghuamen Night Market in Beijing is a complete tourist trap – yet this Mecca of confounding grub is certainly worth a visit. Rarely anywhere in the world you get to immerse yourself into as dense concentration of disgusting foodstuffs as here. The small booths and stalls sell everything edible in the spirit of old Chinese proverb: “Eat everything with four legs except the table”. Often many of the offerings turn out to taste wonderful, even though it’s better not to think about where they came from.
Starfish, seahorses, all the major insects, inner organs of mammals and birds alike are just the beginning of the culinary treasures you can find in this market. And for those looking for something little less extreme, the traditional Chinese, Mongolian and Uigurian dishes are also available. Unfortunately, the prices are “tourist prices”.
How to get there? Just tell the cabbie you’re going to Donghuamen Yeshi, they all know the place.
Penis Emporioum
The most peculiar restaurant in Beijing became an immediate hit and it has even become a franchise, with extensions even overseas. What is this place? Why, the penis restaurant of course!
Man’s libido and the problems brought on by its weakness are an endless point of interest in China. Even the hotel lobbies sell products to boost “manly energy” and many foods are believed to effect the led in the old pencil positively. Naturally the top ten of these nourishments are composed of different sort of animal penises. Perhaps the first in the world, Guolizhuang Restaurant specializes in these.
When Madventures visited the Guolizhuang, the cabinets were filled with very secretive Chinese entourages of wealthy looking Chinese gentlemen. And who wouldn’t be secretive, when the table is filled with different sort penises to be dipped in the hot pot: horse, donkey, lamb, bull, dog and snake members, to mention but a few. By special order you can also enjoy seal’s penis. There are also all sorts of drinks designed to fortify manhood, for example deer’s blood.
Guolizhuang restaurant, 500m west of Dongsishitiao Qiao, south side of the road, Dongcheng District
Phone: 6405 5698
Train Kung Fu The Shaolin Way
The Chinese martial art Kung Fu was born in Shaolin temple, which these days resembles more and more Disneyland, but luckily nearby in Dengfeng you can still find authentic training centers concentrating on the basic tenets of Kung fu. Hundreds, even thousands of young Chinese live and practice in these, aiming for a career in army, police or private security. The best ones go to show business or all the way to Hollywood.
Madventures trained In Shaolin Epo Wushu College for the first time in 2004. Things have changed since. The place is renovated and has its own English language website now. Epo is one of the top ten Kung Fu schools in China, but the foreigners can alos live and train there.
Training is hard and the location has certain boarding school harshness to it. The practicing goes on all day and it’s not hard to grasp why the masters of this sport are almost supernatural in their skill – they really work hard for it.
Link: http://www.shaolinepo.com
MADVENTURES Papua Niugini
The Wrecks Of World War II
The island of New Guinea was a setting for bloody battles between the Japanese and the allied forces (mostly Australians and Americans). A weird legacy of the war is “wreck tourism” – the latest example being a mummified Japanese fighter pilot hanging from his parachute by the popular hiking route of Kokoda track.
The best-preserved wrecks are the ones underwater and even by snorkeling you can see WWII fighters on the bottom of the coastal waters. Internet has pages by aficionados who have even dug out the identities of these pilots. Until the last few years you could find planes, heavy machineguns or even bombs gathering moss in the jungle, but these days the locals have recycled the wrecks. In the villages you may find odd memorabilia and purchase, for example, a gas mask left in the jungle for decades.
More info: http://www.pacificwrecks.com/
Voluntary Work In The Jungle
Voluntary work is one of the best ways to get to know the foreign cultures and at the same time, accomplish something concrete to make the world even a bit better place. Idea is to create grassroots contacts and understanding between people belonging to different nationalities, cultures and religions. Organizations who structure the voluntary work are non-profit, but the volunteers will often have to pay a fee to take part.
Papua New Guinea is one of the poorest, corrupt and unsafe countries in its region. There are many different organizations working in the area, but Madventures is interested in jungle conditions and would place its trust in Trekforce, British expedition professionals. Trekforce projects concentrate on villages of Morobe highlands and every stint working there includes jungle training. The work in these projects take from two weeks to five months.
More info: http://www.trekforce.org.uk/expeditions/papua_new_guinea.htm
The Best Jungle Guide In Papua New Guinea
Its bad reputation has caused a loss of tourism that has wreaked havoc on tourism infrastructure in Papua New Guinea. Package tours to the most popular sites are organized but for independent traveling, PNG is a challenging destination.
If you want to travel outside the tourista trails, Madventures recommends hiring a guide. The best one in the country is a man called Sam Ifid, a former officer who has traversed the whole of PNG during his military career. Sam knows the jungles, he is very cultured, pleasant and speaks good English.
Sam lives close to Lae in village called Gabensis. You can phone him +675-72961895 tai +675-6773295. Alternatively you can reach him through Trekforce. (For details, see above tip about the voluntary work.)
MADVENTURES Hindustan
Real Old School Budget Guest Housing In Varanasi
As independent traveling develops more and more commercial, one longs for old school guest houses; basic and simple accommodation without Internet or air conditioning, flashing neon signs, European football booming on the lobby TV and backpackers chasing those aforementioned “amenities”.
In India you can still relive the good old days. Prime example of economical and wonderful old school budget guest housing is Eastern View Guesthouse at Varanasi’s Hanuman Ghat. Madventures likes it a lot: the prices are cheap, the rooms are clean, the beds have mattresses and the fan propeller provides the AC. From the roof opens a beautiful view towards the Ganges. The food is also worth a mention!
This family owned business is ran by 30-something Deepak, whose authentic Indian expertise provide you with tickets to train and buses and other things you might need help with.
Contact: 093-07244837 / 092-36848106 and deepakjaiswal@rediffmail.com
Mela – A Pilgrimage Worth Experiencing
One of the most sacred Hindu locations is Allahabad, where river Ganges joins with the streams of Yamuna and the mythical Sarasvati. The annual Mela festivities gather millions of pilgrims for a month. Every twelfth year a Maha Kumbh Mela is held. This is the largest gathering of human beings on the planet and visible from space. Last time 30 million people attended.
Madventures took part in 2009 Magh Mela in Allahabad, bathing in the holy waters with million other people. The atmosphere cannot be put to words. All these pilgrims live in huge tent villages in an area of just few square miles. To reach this area you have to walk 10 to 15 miles, because the car traffic in the area is restricted. For a donation, you can accommodate in certain ashrams’ tents. If you have a local friend who knows a bit of Hindi and can act as a translator, functioning in the area becomes remarkably easier.
The Mela dates vary according to Hindu calendar, but more information can be found at http://www.hindu-blog.com/
Take The Train!
The one and only genuine (and also the most environmental and cheapest) way to see India is by train. The railway is the most inclusive in the world – and also the busiest, with 18 million passengers and 2 million tons of cargo a day. Despite all the chaos, the railroads build in 1850’s work well and the trains are almost always on time.
As a legacy of the old caste system, the trains have strict class divisions. Madventures recommends traveling in “Second Class Sleeper”-cars, where you get in touch with the common folks but can also cheaply sleep in your very own “bed”- privacy is provided with a curtain, sometimes not even that.
Train rides are long and slow. From Delhi to southern India, the journey takes days. You meet all kinds of people on the way, often whole families on their way to meet relatives. The joyful hustle and bustle plus the delicious aromas of the food and drinks make certain that the time flies.
MADVENTURES West Africa
Clay Kitsch Hotel
The betamarribe tribe of the Natitingou are have been called as ”the architects of earth”, moniker earned because of their traditional way of building sturdy clay huts called Tata. These castle-like huts were once key to the tribe’s survival in the long battle against slave traders.
Hotel Tata Somba is the veritable oasis of Natitingou build like a very large pink Tata-hut. Accommodation is basic, but the traveler worn out by the mountains might very well enjoy the kitschy milieu of the place. There’s a pool and a restaurant – if you live elsewhere, you can visit the pool for a fee.
http://www.hoteltatasomba.com
Music
You can’t escape from great music in western Africa. This the home region of such superstars as Fela Kuti, Youssou N’Douri and Mariam. Less know, but as soulful and enchanting songstress is Afia Mala from Togo. Mala has immigrated to France. She’s been performing since 1970’s and has won ”Best Female African Vocalist”-award in 1992. Her latest album was recorded in Cuba and it combines the Caribbean rhythms of African exodus and to the ancient African musical tradition. Madventures recommends, aural trip to the French-speaking Africa!
http://www.afiamala.com
West African Moonshine
Although the French colonialism has made cheap and decent red wine widely available in Togo and Benin – unlike in many other African countries - the workingman’s choice of drink is still classic self-made hooch or moonshine.
The locals say that the moonshine is manufactured in every county, but some are more choice than others – be sure to ask local advice. The mash is usually produced from root vegetables: sweet potatoes, yams and etc.
The taste is very strong, but according to Madventures field research, not as disgusting as one would think. In fact, under severe and stressing conditions, yam-hooch goes down quite smoothly. When visiting someone, it is polite to bring a bottle. Unscrew the cork and pour some on the ground to nourish the spirits, the taste the drink yourself to show and only then offer it to others. This way they know the moonshine is not poisoned and they can enjoy it without hesitation.
MADVENTURES Yemen
The Second Best Hotel In Sana’A
One of the greatest budget accommodations in Yemen is Dawood, smack dab in the middle of scenery straight out of Arabian nights. But if Dawood is full and your budget belt must be tightened, the good alternative is hotel Felix Arabia in the Sana’a old town.
The hotel’s name is derived from the ancient scrolls written in Latin, which describe Yemen as Felix Arabia – “happy Arabia”. The rooms of Felix Arabia are personal and the house is old, authentic and made of stone. The prices are more economical than Dawood and the downstairs has a good restaurant.
http://arabiafelix.free.fr/
The Best Honey In The World
Wadi Duan is situated east of Shibam in the district of Hadramawt. When you enter Wadi Duan for the first time through the upper passage, the sight is unforgettable: the scenery is amazing for such otherwise dry corner of the earth - lush green valley in the middle of desolate, rocky terrain.
The best honey in the world is said to originate from here. Nomadic beekeepers carry the hives on their shoulders searching for the best flowers. The famous liquid gold is gathered only from the bees that have enjoyed the nectar from the best of wild flowers. Folk tradition states that Wadi Duan honey is the cure for all ailments. Anyway, it’s best when fresh and taken in Wadi Duan, but it’s also a perfect souvenir. Madventures recommends!
Shibam, The Manhattan Of The Desert
Shibam is one of the weirdest cities in the world. This ”Manhattan of the desert” is erected in the banks of the ocean of sand. The buildings are high-rises made out of clay. These 16-story houses originate from 16th century. The home of the world’s oldest skyscrapers is a UNESCO world heritage site.
Shibam is also notable because it’s not a monument or historical landmark alone, it is a living city with almost 7000 residents. The alleyways are alive with kids and their schoolbooks, goats, donkeys and elders on their shopping trips. Even Madventures was astonished!
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